What Diego doesn't have, however, is a passerelle, or boarding ladder – a detail I was quick to notice as I approached its berth one warm morning in November. To board, I first had to haul myself from a floating dock onto the handrail of Dédé, Rinaldi's smaller fishing boat moored next to it, before using the handrail on the opposite side as a springboard to make the leap onto Diego. As I did, the gleamingyachts came into my line of vision. But as the only two fishing boats in a sea of pleasure yachts, it seemed almost fitting that getting onboard was similarly out of the ordinary.
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